The steep slopes of the mount Batur push us away towards the east of the island. Our way stops when the ocean starts, somewhere not far from Amen, in the small hamlet of Jemeluk. The tourist development broke through the calmness of the fishermen villages which stretch out along the coast. Because of a ship: the Liberty that ran aground at less than 50 meters from the pebble beach of Tulamben. An artificial reef that coral fauna and flora quickly adopt for a breathtaking result. Red gorgons and fire corals proudly dance on the shapeless metallic remnants. Sometimes tinsel-decorated Christmas tree and sometimes heap of life-shining ferrous remains. Some flipper-kicks further, a diffuse light spreads through the gaping holes of the ship. We swim into what the lower deck formerly was. Wide-eyed, we get each drop of life. Endless navigation between the imposing size of the smashed-up metal sheets and the delicate and chiseled details of the reef life.
My underwater wonder is so great I succeed in convincing my family to stay an extra day and dip into the big blue. Introduction to scuba diving into the swimming pool of the hotel then departure for the wreck. Most of them feel the fear of the unknown mixed with a ferocious urge of swimming with the inhabitants of the world of silence. Each one will keep in mind an indelible memory of what was their first dive. And even those for who it's not their first bathing with bottles, the enthusiasm is the same. Maravilloso ! Increible ! Will be the two first words which will say Spanish partner immediately getting out of the water.
Keyword - freedom -
Tuesday 19 August 2008
the breathtaking wreck of the Libery
By dorian on Tuesday 19 August 2008, 19:51 - RTW2-Indonesia
Wednesday 6 August 2008
We dip again into the 2 oceans
By dorian on Wednesday 6 August 2008, 18:00 - RTW2-South Africa
An adventure ends, our great loop in southern Africa stops at Cape town, a city we left almost 2 months before. We get to the « 2 oceans » aquarium, in order to dip again into the memory of this sumptuous underwater creatures we already met for the most part. Between Indian and Atlantic Ocean. We want to enjoy our peregrinations to the very last drop.
Then, the time to part comes, Christophe goes back to Paris and I carry on my trip. A radical change of culture and continent. After a short stop at Kuala Lumpur, I will head for the heavenly island of Bali to meet again my family for a fortnight before keeping on alone towards the island of Java and prolonging thrilling adventures in Indonesia.
As for Africa, continent of contrasts, smiles, generosity, endemic colours and hope, I know that's only a temporary goodbye. Its land, its forests, its villages are packed with so many things seemingly trivial and yet so fascinating. As soon as we put down a foot, we never completely leave again.
Thursday 24 July 2008
the magical reef of Sodwana Bay
By dorian on Thursday 24 July 2008, 20:53 - RTW2-South Africa
the shock absorbers shake on the stony road. Kids wave at us in passing. The ordeal ends on a tasteless village out of hand. On the other side of the dune, a long sand beach and some great waves that seem intended to surfers. But at the entrance of the village, signs announcing guest houses and dive centers titillate us. What does this tiny bay, northeast of Durban, hide in its depths? We get off here to discover it.
Far from the almost industrial bustle of the Coral Divers center, we opt for the Amaury Diving club. Colin, the founder, greets us and we make an appointment for tomorrow morning on the beach.
The inflatable boats lie on the beach and a crowd fidgets around. Big tractors push them onto the water. Dive briefing. Armed with a mask and a tank we hop on the boat. The skipper avoids the breaking waves before dashing towards the dive spot.
We slowly sink into the big blue. The first patterns loom. Soft and hard corals decorate the reef formations and shelter an astounding diversity of submarine life. From the clown triggerfish to the boxy, from the harlequin shrimp to the emperor angelfish. The colors harmony of the nudibranches drive us speechless. The diversity of this kind of slug is so amazing that it became the Colin's speciality and plan to write a book on it. He shows us a species, unknown from the scientists' world so far – a nudibranch which still waits for its Latin name. Spotted, Striped, yellow, blue, white, purple and seldom exceeding the 2 centimeters, they embellish the miniature world of the reef. But the chromatic high point covers the harlequin shrimp which is savouring a starfish. Blotches trim its pearly shell. A few flaps of fin further, the grace of a swimming turtle.
We will repeat this ritual 5 other times with always the same dose of fascination. 6 dives in total and as so many unforgettable moments. Speckled crabs hiding in the cracks of a spiny coral. Open-mouthed morays in front of us, dumbfounded. Disks of majestic corals enveloped by orange shoals. Pimply nudibranches and stingray taking off from the sandy bottom.
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